Category Archives: trip

A Year Down Under

After crossing the Pacific it seemed challenging to find an appropriate blog post to match the adventure we’d just experienced. Now a year has passed and reflecting back we’ve explored quite a bit of Queensland, which is just a small corner of a vast country.

We acquired two Husqvarna 650 dual-sport motorcycles to explore on land. AirBnB provided a lovely Spanish Hacienda in the middle of the Queensland hinterland, and some beautiful motorcycling roads in north New South Wales.

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The end of the Pacific crossing and a new start at Brisbane

We’ve been in Brisbane just over a week, after anchoring nearly everyday for 9 months, making our own water and power, it feels like we’re in the land of plenty. No worries about the anchor dragging, the batteries needed charged, and the water maker filters needed changed. This was our goal, and the achievement is bittersweet as this marks the end of a great adventure.

Gray Matter at Dockside Marina.

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New Caledonia — passing through

After 3 days and 8 hours at sea, we passed the south tip of New Caledonia, Isle Des Pine, almost half way to Brisbane.  Except for the first 24 hours, the sea condition has been excellent, just a bit breeze with gentle swells. Last night, we had to run though several layers of squalls, with lightening all over the place – a hair raising experience.  Luckily, we went through without drama. 

We could spend a night here at Isle Des Pine. But with such good condition, we decided to push on.  ETA @noon on Sept 18.

Musket cove

While in Mexico, we invited Christine’s family to visit us on our big adventure.  We originally agreed to host 3, however as the excitement grew, all 8 extended family members wanted to see Gray Matter and experience the South Pacific. From faraway Cabo San Lucas, we researched on resorts in Fiji and quickly arranged them to book the Plantation Resort on Malolo Lai Lai island, adjacent to Musket Cove where we could anchor Gray Matter. Five months and an ocean-crossing later, When we met Christine’s parents, 2 aunts, 2 uncles, 2 cousins in Nadi and set out to Malolo Lailai Island we had no idea it would be one of the memorable stops of our trip.

Musket Cove is one of the most popular cruising destinations in Fiji. It is a well-sheltered cove between Malolo island and Malolo Lai Lai island, which hosts Plantation resort in addition to two other resorts and a handful private properties. Here is also home to the infamous Musket cove marina and yacht club. We had a fabulous time here. Musket cove has the perfect formula – with all the beauty and allure of the South Pacific, a well established yacht-friendly infrastructure and, once again, the most welcoming Fijian culture.

The pictures will speak for themselves, we should note that we have had less rain (1 day in 2 weeks), and moderate temperatures (mid 80s) which explain why we and many others just hang out here.

Anchorage

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The Amazing underwater world (video)

Sometimes what seems like the biggest challenge turns into the biggest blessing. In American Somoa we noticed a problem with our dive compressor, sure enough when we arrived in Fiji, it would not fill tanks beyond 1500psi (half full). With good internet in Savu Savu we contacted the dealer in Sydney Australia and they suspect the fourth stage has failed. They have a piston and cylinder in stock and we arranged to have it shipped to Nadi later the month. Yet, the reality is that we are in some of the world’s best diving without a compressor.

Running between the moorings in our “micro dinghy” we stopped and chatted with a couple from Chicago on “Eagle’s Wings”. They have been cruising for 9 years, and this is their 3th season in Fiji, returning to NZ for each cyclone season. They offered that they were going to the Namena Marine Reserve and would be happy to fill our tanks.

Arriving in the Namena we anchored near Eagle’s Wings, and arranged to dive with Ken and Beth the next day. A couple days later, 3 NZ boats arrived – one of them, “Just In Time”, carry a big dive compressor unit onboard – 10 minutes a tank – Mark is having serious compressor envy. Soon enough, we were doing 2-3 dives a day with all these new diver friends we just made and having a blast.

We logged 12+ dives in the week at Namena and Makongai- absolutely spectacular – the best soft and hard coral we had seen. Check out the action in the video.

Namena island

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American Samoa

When we cleared into Ensenada Mexico in late December it wasn’t clear when I’d need these American Dollars I had from the craigslist firesale of everything “unneeded”. Here in the middle of Polynesia is a little bit of ‘Merica.

Our original plans to head to Tonga changed given the weather, which has continued to be unfavorable for passage and stay in Tonga. 450 miles west of Suwarrow lays American Somoa; four islands of polynesian history that are an American Territory. So yes – McDonalds, ACE Hardware, English speakers, US Dollars (no FX charges on your Visa card). What we didn’t expect was stunning beauty, a combination of the Marquesas Islands with convenience of a weekend at Catalina.

Industrial, but surely beautiful.

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Suwarrow – a remote paradise

As we posted earlier, we diverted to Suwarrow based on the weather.  This is one of the northern most Cook Islands.  Remote is an understatement.  Suwarrow is 700 miles west / northwest of Bora Bora – that’s the same distance as San Diego to Cabo San Lucas.  It’s another 450 miles east of American Somoa – the distance from San Francisco to San Diego.  This is not coastal cruising – all open ocean, no options.


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Suwarrow souvenir

As we mentioned we purchased a new tender in Tahiti – 14′ fiberglass center console boston whaler type boat. We had not done any sea miles with this boat in the cradle, so when we started to roll on our way to Suwarrow I noticed the tender had shifted in the cradle and was now resting against the rail of Gray Matter. I was able to secure the boat with a block and tackle we had from our sailboat (the same one we used to hoist the anchor in Mexico – handy thing to have onboard).

When we arrived Suwarrow I realized the stainless cradle support on the outboard side had broken. It looks like the weld failed on one support which caused the other weld to fail.


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Bora Bora – Hieva festival

We finally made it to Bora Bora, often referred as the most beautiful island in the world. It is gorgeous, twin peaks, turquoise water. We did a dinghy ride all around the islands, diving and snorkeling with lemon sharks and Manta rays – Bora has the biggest Manta ray I have ever seen. Good times, although the frequent boat and jetski traffic buzzing right next to Gray Matter is a bit annoying.


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