We’ve been in Brisbane just over a week, after anchoring nearly everyday for 9 months, making our own water and power, it feels like we’re in the land of plenty. No worries about the anchor dragging, the batteries needed charged, and the water maker filters needed changed. This was our goal, and the achievement is bittersweet as this marks the end of a great adventure.
Gray Matter at Dockside Marina.
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We been moving every day or two, but spent the last two days back in Taiohae the main anchorage in Nuku Hiva. The Round the World Oyster fleet started arriving Sunday and there are about 15 of the 25 boats anchored around Gray Matter. We are still the only trawler / powerboat among the 30 some boats anchored here.
Yesterday on the Taiohae dock we met Alan and Jean De Toit who double-handed their Oyster 575 from the Galapagos arriving here two days ago. The asked which boat we were on – we are always a little shy about admitting it’s “THE trawler”. They were immediately curious. We had them over yesterday for a tour and chat – they are are on their second circumnavigation, having done the first on a 34 foot sailboat. They liked the space and simplicity of Gray Matter. Their blog: http://yachtlegend.blogspot.
One our first day here we chatted with a couple on a 40′ Catamaran Litespeed – Dave and Cathy. Dave has been “touring” the South Pacific for 8 years, and Cathy joined in New Zealand in 2007. They gave us a huge download on what to see in the Marquesas as well as the highlights between here in Australia. They also referenced a couple of other sailing blogs which we will pass on if they prove helpful. When we talked to them a week ago, they were heading back to the US to re-enter the working world. Last night they told us they are heading to Darwin Australia to join a rally through Indonesia for 3 months, and they need to be in Darwin by July. We asked when they’re leaving – “maybe tomorrow”.
After our afternoon with fellow cruisers, our 5000 miles and 3 months cruising seems like a scratch on the surface. So many places to go and I wonder if someday we can contemplate one week going east and the next going west.
We have a wifi internet connection, so we were able to review all the blog posts – thanks very much to our friends – we were definitely not alone out there.
To add some pictures and comments on the projects.
The solar project has been a great success. We are producing between 2.2 – 3.1 kwh per day – which is at the high end of our expectations. This will easily allow us to only need 1 hour of generator per day when at anchor.
Blower wiring project, we just post a picture of the 230v AC wiring – we had to sort our way through that maze to wire the port side blower to the inverter. We had a good instructor – Melt Emms from Raven Marine – available by email and sat phone when we need him.
Flopper stopper repair
Old version
New version
Another view – note the bird repellant at the end, which would be sticking up on top when flopper stopper is retracted.
Newly installed Bose speaker – and the 100ft sailboat that is our neighbor here in Nuku Hiva.
Trip Stats: Total distance: 2676 nautical miles, average speed: 7.5k, fuel burn: 3.5 gph, engine hours: 361, total fuel consumed: 1278 gallons, fuel remaining: 895.
Trip started from Isla San Benedicto, MX.
We saw this cargo ship (China – Peru) on Day 4, and she was the last ship we saw before landfall at Nuku Hiva.
Last sunset in the northern hemisphere.
Sunrise as we approach Nuku Hiva.
First sight of land after two weeks! Nuku Hiva, here we come.
We hooked a decent yellowfin tuna on the way in. Our biggest catch so far.
A very productive catch.
Dinner for weeks …
Just a few thoughts on the passage. We noted during the passage, we passed time by looking at the world cruising routes and contemplating some of the other places in the world to visit. The 2600 miles from North America to the Society Islands is one of the longest passages without landfall in the world. It would be an understatement to say we feel a sense of accomplishment to complete this passage with so little to worry about.
It’s a credit to Nordhavn’s voyaging under power philosophy in that two of us can take a 100 ton boat 2600 miles across one third of the Pacific Ocean. We were able to deal with the small mechanical issues, fix a few small things and arrive so rested we toured an extra 50 miles; caught and cleaned a 30lb tuna; anchored and didn’t even take a nap. I can honestly say the boat is as good if not better condition then when we left.
We truly feel we can go anywhere in the world we want, and look forward to many more adventures.
We thought we should do a summary post on our cruising experience in Mexico, for those planning a visit in the near future. As we never made it over to the mainland, this summary is only about Baja California and the Sea of Cortez, and, naturally, only represents our very objective impression.
Yesterday marked one full month being “off the grid”, disconnected – no permanent address, no cell phone – just an email address and a PO box. We duck into La Paz — restock and rest during the forecast 3-day northerly blow.
In one month: we’ve run 1452 nautical miles, 204 main engine hours, 65 generator hours, 12 wing engine hours. We’ve used 1370 gallons of fuel – accounting for the wing engine and generator time we averaged 5.8 gph on the main engine. Taking the times down here in La Paz – I can now announce the Big Cat in the engine room (our only pet on board) crossed 9000 hours – barely broken in.
We crossed 1000 nm since our departure from San Francisco; 1/8 th of our 8000 mile journey is completed in just the first 18 days. We’ve consistly averaged over 8.5 knots / slightly more than 200 miles over 24 hours. In 18 days, we’ve spent 1 day at the dock in Ensenada, we’re very pleased with the battery consumption and power generation.
We’re gaining confidence in picking our weather windows. Between the KVH V7 and our Telcel USB connection here in Mexico, we can download current grib files and NOAA marine forecasts. We deoarted San Francisco ahead of the series of fronts coming out of the North Pacific, road out a gale at anchor in the Channel Islands (definitely have our anchor tackle figured out – not to mention the anchor alarm and GPS track feature). We ran south from Redondo Beach ahead of another front although we had the 10 – 12 foot swells on our Ensenada passage. Now 500 miles south of Ensenada we still have a some NW swell and as forecasted a NE wind which is making things a little sloppy. Last two overnights have had plenty of moonlight – nice to have the horizon in sight.
